The Latest on Leather
By Kei Yong
Recent fashion weeks in Paris and Milan have everyone excited for the coming year's trends. We’re foreseeing bright bags, micro-mini skirts, and the return of the controversial Canadian tuxedo, but you definitely can’t deny that leather is here to stay. Neither, however, can we deny that real leather, and even faux leather if polyurethane-based, is incredibly damaging to the environment. Thankfully, over the past two decades or so, scientists and designers have been collaborating on more conscious alternatives to create a greener fashion industry.
Since 2017, Hermès has been partnering with Myco Works, a California-based start-up, to create a bag made from Sylvania, a type of mushroom leather. They've replaced the traditional canvas and calfskin with mycelium that is constructed in a process that creates an interlocking cellular structure which is what gives it its strength and likeness to leather, which they've used to produce an eco-friendly version of the classic Victoria travel bag. Once the material is produced, it's then shipped to artisans in France who tan and finish it before transforming it into bags. To be perfectly honest, it is quite disappointing not seeing Hermès recreate more of their classic silhouettes with Sylvania; however, this is still a big turning point in the industry, for if Hermès, the leather expert, is willing to make such changes to their signature product, perhaps more brands, from designer all the way down, will soon follow suit.
 |
| Hermès, Victoria bag in Sylvania (price unknown) |
Stella McCartney is also launching 'the world’s first-ever garments made from vegan, lab-grown Mylo mushroom leather' in collaboration with their long-time partner Bolt Threads. Advancing from their first mycelium-based product, the Falabella Bag which debuted in 2018, the brand has created a co-ord set, which once again demonstrates the material’s likeness to real leather. Mylo has also been collaborating with other sports brands, including Lululemon, whose capsule collection which just dropped on 8 February and includes an undyed Mylo yoga mat and Duffel Bag, and Adidas, who in April 2021 launched a pair of Mylo Stan Smiths with a natural rubber mid-sole as a revamp of the classic silhouette.
 |
Stella McCartney, Black bustier top & utilitarian trousers (currently not for sale) |
Econyl, a recycled material that uses synthetic waste like finishing nets and plastics, is being produced by Italian company Aquafil in collaboration with Stone Island. The brand has used this material to make overshirts, Bermuda shorts, and baseball caps in a wide range of colours for their spring/summer catalogue. Extortionate prices, yes, but I'd give them bonus points for variety.
 |
| Stone Island, Overshirt (£330.53) |
Piñatex by Ananas Anam is perhaps one of the more popular sustainable leather alternatives that larger corporations have partnered with. The material has been around for quite a while; Dr Carmen Hijosa started its development in the 1990s inspired by the weaving of plant fibres in the Philippines. Piñatex uses discarded leaf fibres from pineapple harvests, thus providing an opportunity to build a scalable commercial industry for developing farming communities. Brands they have collaborated with include the H&M Conscious Collection (of whose greenwashing most readers need not be warned), Guo Pei, Mariam Al Sibai, and more that are not limited to fashion. Hilton Hotel has also used it for some of its furnishings, RIVA Cycles has made bicycle seats out of it, and Aurumn Compendium has utilised it in their woven plant pots.
 |
| H&M, Short brocade jacket (£226.04) |
Overall, the utilisation of these materials in the fashion world has been, for some, a long time coming. To some degree, it is disappointing to see that major corporations are not taking more advantage of these leather alternatives in their lines. However, we still have to remain optimistic that, with this rise in innovation, we will eventually be able to see more products made out of plant-based leather on clothing racks and hopefully at more affordable prices.
Comments
Post a Comment