"Made In ___"

 by Eleni Spiliotes

Photo by Utopia By Cho on Unsplash

Imagine you're wearing a white tank top, a pair of jeans, and white leather sneakers. Now match the labels to the image they conjure up.

1. "Made in USA"

2. "Made in Italy"

3. "Made in China"

A. An elderly, graying man is hunched over a long wooden table. He uses a hammer to lightly pound the seams of a piece of vegetable tanned leather he has adhered to the skeleton of a shoe.

B. A line of boys no older than ten sit shirtless behind a row of sewing machines, in front of them a ceiling tall pile of jeans to be hemmed.

C. Inside an LED lit, wind energy powered factory, a team of workers laugh amongst themselves as they finish cutting large swaths of fabric for a small batch of "sustainable basics."

If you're anything like me, always on the hunt for ethical brands and immersed in the good, bad, and ugly of fashion news and activism, you probably guessed that the Italian master artisan made the shoes, the Chinese sweatshop made the jeans, and the American factory made the tank top. But, I think this oversimplified and worn out narrative justifies complacent, rather than critical, consumerism.

The sustainable fashion discourse has generated three categories: fast fashion ("Made in China"), luxury fashion ("Made in Italy"), and sustainable fashion ("Made in USA"). Each category, as we saw above, has a set of values, cultural associations, and collective imagery attached to it, such that with a little greenwashing, it’s pretty easy for any brand to masquerade as a transparent, sustainably sourced (what does that even mean?), socially responsible company. Not to name names, but I'm looking at you H&M. Sustainable fashion is nothing without its labels.

"Made in USA"

Photo by Charles Etoroma on Unsplash

Reformation has built its cult following on the promise of a transparent supply chain, ethical values, and low-impact materials. The Reformation aesthetic has heralded a new era of fashion, one that caters to the "that" girl who wants to put out the world's fires, but in a 300 dollar floral-patterned, mini wrap dress. I'm not judging. I've often aspired to be "that" girl. She seems very much attainable if you visit the Reformation website, or watch their promotional videos. All beautiful models, cheeky puns, and sustainability signposts. 

If you read the sustainability page of their website, you'll see the statement, "Too often garment workers are subject to terrible conditions. That’s why we built our own factory in Los Angeles, where we work with awesome people from all over the world." Now, maybe it's just me, but I interpret this to mean that their clothing is made in an ethical factory in Los Angeles. However, when I did a little scroll through their catalog, I saw only "Sustainably Made in Turkey," or "Sustainably Made in China" in small print.

This surprised me because I have always thought the brand's origin story went something like this: after a trip to China, a young millennial was jaded by the fast fashion manufacturing process and started her own LA clothing line to pioneer a new sustainable supply chain. But, sure enough, when I went into my own closet, I discovered my Reformation dress also has "Made in China" on its tag. 

If you dig deep on their website, it is disclosed that they have 51 partner factories across the world, but unless you are writing a blog post, you probably aren't spending time scrutinizing the website's unclear information on company practices. The little information I could find outside of their own website painted a more nuanced picture of the supposedly #2 most sustainable option (besides being naked). According to this website, not all of their suppliers provide a living wage, and few of their suppliers are SA8000, WRAP, or Fairtrade certified, among other issues. This is all to say, the deeper you investigate, the murkier the findings. 

"Made in Italy"

Photo by Nassim Boughazi on Unsplash

I think the status afforded to the "Made in Italy" label is rarely challenged. However, the four figure price point of luxury brands like Fendi, Prada, and Gucci is not necessarily a signifier of artisanal craftsmanship and ethical factory standards. In 2019, a Neapolitan factory owner was arrested for illegal employment and abduction, when fifty workers were found hiding in a storeroom. The leather goods sweatshop was associated with luxury brands including Armani, Fendi, and Saint Laurent. The story garnered a lot of media attention, but it is not an isolated event. The pressure suppliers are placed under by the skyrocketing demand for luxury goods often forces the subcontracting of manufacturing to unaudited factories. 

Chinese immigration to Italy has also changed the nature of Italian production. Luxury brands increasingly use Chinese-staffed sweatshops in Italy because it is cheaper and faster than contracting Italian craftsmen. Therefore, luxury brands simultaneously exploit workers and the "Made in Italy" label.   

"Made in China"

Photo by Rio Lecatompessy on Unsplash

Now it's time to tackle the label with the most negative connotation, "Made in China." China is the largest producer of textiles. Its massive workforce and lack of labor regulations mean that fashion companies can up their profits by offshoring their production. You might have heard news stories about Chinese workers subjected to forced labor, unsafe working conditions, low pay, and the inability to unionize. The more these violations are at the center of sustainability conversations, the more will be done to combat them.  But, I want to dispel the myth that "Made in China" means unsustainable, because 1) exploitative labor practices are a global issue, and 2) China is home to many sustainability initiatives. Additionally, there has been a rise in R&D in China, as companies prioritize internal creativity and innovation. Many Chinese designers are reclaiming the phrase "Made in China," creating brands like Loop Swim and Norlha that are championing social responsibility.

Conclusion

Now, I'm not saying you should ban any of these labels from your wardrobe. In fact, I hope I have highlighted the ambiguity of each. Furthermore, there are obviously more than three countries in the world. Ethically managed factories and abominable sweatshops can be found in every corner of the globe. Sustainable fashion is one big gray area. We should always be questioning our preconceived notions about the brand aesthetic, price tag, and geography of a garment. 

Besides the #WhoMadeMyClothes movement started by Fashion Revolution, there is little concrete information to be found on the faces behind the fashion monoliths, beyond vague brand statements. If a brand's sustainability page is lacking (if you can't find it, I think you have your answer), check out Good on You, an app that provides third-party brand ratings and articles on more sustainable alternatives. But most importantly, be a conscious consumer, don't blindly follow what brands, social media, I or anyone says. Do your own research and remember that fashion has two faces.